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Naturalist Field Guides · Live Database

Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula Care Sheet

Practical, crew-tested setup, heating, feeding, and Oregon bioactive habitat guides for the animals we carry at Critter Cabana, updated live from our store care database.

Critter Cabana Field Guide • Terrestrial & Burrowing Tarantulas

Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula

Davus pentaloris

The Quick Version: Once you get past the 8 legs, New World terrestrial tarantulas are honestly as low-maintenance as a houseplant! They don't need heat lamps, they don't smell, they eat just a couple crickets a week, and females can live 20 to 30 years!
Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula naturalist illustration
Lifespan Females 11+ years / Males 2.5-4 years
Adult Size 3.5-4.5 inch leg span (Dwarf/Medium)
Enclosure 5-gallon tank
Warm / Room Temp 70°–78°F
Cool Side ≤1.5× Legspan
Humidity / Water 60-80% (Medium-High)

1. Deep Soil & Low-Ceiling Safety Setup

Pack 4–6" of Soil So They Can't Fall More Than 1.5× Their Legspan!
1. CORK BARK STARTER TUNNEL Curved Hide Over Pre-Dug Burrow 2. LOW CEILING (≤1.5× LEGSPAN) Prevents Abdomen Rupture from Falls 3. SHALLOW WATER DISH Open Dish 24/7 (Never Use Sponges!) DEEP 4–6" PACKED BURROWING SOIL (70–78°F Room Temp • Never Use Overhead Heat Lamps!)
T-Shirt Rule for Temps If you're comfortable in a T-shirt, your spider is happy!
70°–78°F
Big No-No: Heat Lamps Overhead heat bulbs bake and dehydrate tarantulas fast!
Zero Lamps
Moisture by Species Desert: dry top / damp corner • Tropical: damp lower soil
50–75% RH
Fall Height Limit Heavy spiders pop like water balloons if they fall from high up!
≤1.5× Legspan
Open Water Dish 24/7 Even tiny babies need a water dish (a bottlecap works great!)
No Sponges!

2. Two Great Ways to Set Up Your Habitat

Every Supply Stocked Here at Critter Cabana

Sizing the Tank: Slings vs. Adults

Putting a fingernail-sized baby ('sling') in a giant 10-gallon tank makes it impossible for them to find dinner:

Option A

Option A: Spiderlings ('Slings' Under 1.5")

Keep in a vented sling vial or micro acrylic cube (about 3–4× their legspan wide) with 2" of soil, a piece of moss, and a clean tattoo-ink cap or bottlecap for water.

Option B

Option B: Juveniles & Adults (2" to 7"+)

A 5- to 10-gallon glass or acrylic enclosure filled halfway up with 4–6" of packed reptile/invertebrate soil and a curved cork bark starter cave.

Ground Burrowers vs. Tree Climbers

Make sure your setup matches where your spider actually lives in nature:

Option A

Option A: Ground / Burrowing (Curly Hair, Red Knee, Arizona Blonde)

Wide floor space, deep 4–6" soil for bulldozing, and low ceiling clearance so a clumsy climber can never take a big fall.

Option B

Option B: Tree-Dwelling (Pinktoes, Versicolor, Jumping Spiders)

Tall enclosure with lots of side-wall air holes (cross-ventilation!) and tall cork bark reaching near the ceiling.

To Handle or Not to Handle?

Real talk from our invert team: tarantulas don't get cuddly from being held—handling is mostly for us:

Option A

Option A: Hands-Off Display Pet (What We Recommend)

Safest for the spider! Use a soft paintbrush to gently tap their back legs and guide them into a catch-cup whenever you need to clean.

Option B

Option B: Sit Flat on the Floor (Calm Docile Species Only)

If you do let a calm Curly Hair or Red Knee walk on your open palm, sit on the floor or bed so a sudden bolt can never mean a fatal drop to the floor.

3. Feeding by 'Booty Size' & The Molting Rule

Look at Their Abdomen: Plump Like a Grape = Full • Smaller Than Carapace = Hungry!
Spiderlings 1–2× Per Week
Pre-Killed Cricket Leg, Pinhead, or Cut Mealworm: Tiny slings are timid scavengers—drop a fresh cricket drumstick right by their burrow and pull leftovers after 24 hrs.
Juveniles Once a Week
1–2 Crickets or Small Dubia Roaches: If feeding mealworms or superworms, crush the worm's head with tongs first so it doesn't burrow into the dirt and turn into a beetle!
Adults Every 7–14 Days
2–3 Large Crickets or 1–2 Dubia Roaches: Don't panic if an adult refuses food for weeks (or months!)—they're either full or getting ready to molt.

Best Bugs & Big No-Nos:

Dubia Roaches

Top pick—nutritious and won't bite a spider!

Banded Crickets

Great hunters—MUST remove uneaten crickets after 24h!

Hornworms & Mealworms

Crush worm heads so they can't hide underground

Never Feed Yard Bugs

Wild bugs carry lawn sprays & parasites that kill spiders

READ THIS FIRST — Upside-Down Means MOLTING, Not Dead! Tarantulas flip completely flat on their back on a silk mat to shed their old skin! NEVER touch or try to flip an upside-down spider, pull any loose crickets out immediately (a cricket will chew on a soft molting spider!), and wait 7–10 days after a molt until their fangs turn from white to jet-black before feeding again!

4. Four Keys to a Happy, Thriving Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula

Crew-Tested Husbandry Habits
01

Watch Out for Wire Mesh

Heavy ground tarantulas have two tiny hooks on each foot that can get snagged in cheap woven window-screen lids. Acrylic lids with drilled air holes are way safer!

02

Overflow the Water Dish

Tarantulas hate being sprayed in the face with a mister! Instead, just overfill their water dish a little bit once a week so one corner of the soil stays damp.

03

Itchy Belly Hairs

New World tarantulas kick itchy 'urticating hairs' off their butt when annoyed. Don't rub your eyes after working in the tank, and wash your hands with soap!

04

Upside-Down vs. Death Curl

Flat on their back = happy molting! Right-side-up with all 8 legs curled tightly *underneath* the belly = dehydrated ('death curl')—put their mouthparts right into a shallow puddle of water!

Bring-Home Shopping Checklist

Tap items to check them off on your phone while you shop at Critter Cabana.

Enclosure & Deep Soil

Water Dish & Safe Tools

Live Feeder Bugs

Complete Reference Notes & Oregon Keeping Guide

Live from Store Care Database
Species: Davus pentaloris (formerly Cyclosternum fasciatum) | Difficulty: 2/5 — Easy | Hardiness: 3/5 — Moderate

Critter Cabana & Gresham Pet Supply — Keeping Your Pet Healthy & Thriving

At a Glance

Common NameGuatemalan Tiger Rump
SpeciesDavus pentaloris (Often still sold under the outdated name Cyclosternum fasciatum)
OriginTropical forests of Guatemala and southern Mexico
Adult Size3.5–4.5 inch leg span (A smaller, almost "dwarf" species)
LifespanFemales: 11+ yearsMales: 2.5–4 years
Diet TypeInsectivore (Crickets, Roaches, Mealworms)
ActivityNocturnal / Crepuscular
TemperamentFast, nervous, and skittish. They are "flight" rather than "fight" spiders.
HandleabilityNot recommended. They are incredibly fast and will bolt.
VenomMedically insignificant (Comparable to a bee sting, unless allergic)
Urticating HairsYes (They will flick hairs from their abdomen if they feel trapped)
Difficulty2/5 — Easy (Fast growth rate and easy care, but their speed can intimidate beginners)
Hardiness3/5 — Moderate (Requires a balance of moisture without becoming a swamp)
Why We Love Them: The Guatemalan Tiger Rump is one of the most visually striking tarantulas in the hobby. They have a brilliant copper/orange carapace (head) and a jet-black abdomen with distinct red/orange "tiger stripes." Despite being terrestrial burrowers, they are incredibly active and will cover their entire enclosure in thick, white webbing.

Safety Information

Venom/Defense: Their venom is medically insignificant. If startled, their first instinct is to run at lightning speed into their burrow. If they cannot escape, they will kick itchy urticating hairs.
First Aid: If you get hairs on your skin, use tape to pull them out, then wash with warm water.
Handling Precautions: Do not handle this species. They are a "dwarf" species, making them very light and incredibly fast. If they bolt out of your hands, you may never catch them, and a fall to the floor could easily kill them.

Housing & Enclosure

Enclosure Type & Size

  • Type: Terrestrial / Opportunistic Burrower / Heavy Webber.
  • Minimum: Because they are a smaller species, a 5-gallon tank (or an acrylic enclosure of similar size) is plenty of space for a full-grown adult.
  • Ventilation: Good cross-ventilation is required to prevent mold when keeping the substrate slightly damp.

Substrate

  • Recommended: Coconut fiber (Eco Earth), peat moss, or organic topsoil.
  • Depth: Provide 3 to 4 inches of substrate. They love to dig and will often construct elaborate burrows that connect to their surface webbing.

Décor & Enrichment

  • Hides & Anchor Points: Provide a curved cork bark hide as a starting point for their burrow. You should also add a few fake plants or small twigs around the hide—they will use these as anchor points to build massive webs across the surface of the dirt.
  • Water Dish: Provide a small, shallow water dish. (They will likely fill it with dirt or webbing, so you will need to clean it often).

Temperature

ZoneTemperature
Ambient75–82°F (24–28°C)
  • Heating: Room temperature is usually fine, but they do appreciate slightly warmer temperatures than some other species. If your house drops below 70°F, use a small heat pad mounted on the SIDE of the tank, never underneath.

Humidity

  • Target Range: 60–80% (Medium-High).
  • How to Maintain: Do not keep the enclosure bone dry, but do not turn it into mud. The best method is to keep one half of the enclosure (the side with the water dish) slightly damp by overflowing the dish once a week, while letting the side with their hide remain dry.

Diet & Nutrition

Davus pentaloris has a fantastic feeding response and grows very quickly compared to other New World tarantulas.

Primary Diet

  • Live crickets, dubia roaches, or mealworms. Ensure the prey is smaller than the spider's abdomen, as they are a smaller species.

Feeding Schedule

Life StageFrequencyPrey Size
Spiderling (Sling)Every 3–4 daysPinhead crickets or pre-killed prey
JuvenileEvery 5–7 daysSmall crickets
AdultEvery 7–10 days1-2 Medium/Large crickets

Pre-Molt Fasting

  • If they seal the entrance to their burrow with heavy webbing and dirt, they are in pre-molt. Do not dig them up. Leave them completely alone until they emerge on their own.

Molting

During the Molt

  • DO NOT disturb the spider. They will molt safely inside their webbed-up burrow.
  • Remove any live crickets from the enclosure immediately.

Post-Molt Care

  • Wait at least 7 days before offering food so their new fangs have time to harden.

What We Stock & Use in Our Stores

These are products we carry and recommend for this species. Ask any associate for help finding them in-store.
CategoryProductNotes
EnclosureTarantula Cribs Terrestrial (Medium/Large) or 5-Gallon TankPerfect size for a smaller species
SubstrateZoo Med Eco Earth (Coco Fiber)Minimum 3-4 inches deep to allow for burrowing
HidesZoo Med Natural Cork Bark (Small Curved)Place half-buried in the soil
Water DishExo Terra Shallow Water Dish (Small)Overflow this once a week to keep one corner damp
Feeder InsectsLive CricketsAvoid large crickets until the spider is fully grown

Care sheet compiled by Critter Cabana & Gresham Pet Supply. For questions, ask any livestock specialist in-store.

Last updated: 2026-08-04

How We Keep Them at Critter Cabana & Gresham Pet Supply

  • Oregon Winter Furnace Air vs. Molting Humidity: When Pacific Northwest furnaces kick on from October through April, indoor room humidity drops fast and dries out small enclosures from the top down. Rather than misting the spider or invert directly (which stresses terrestrial species and invites stagnant mold), we keep Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula at 60-80% (Medium-High) by using a deep moisture-retaining substrate bed (ReptiSoil + Coco Fiber + Sphagnum Moss), overflowing the water dish slightly into one corner, and maintaining cross-ventilation.
  • Safe Room Heating in the Willamette Valley: If your house drops below 65°F on winter nights, never stick a heat pad on the bottom of a burrowing invertebrate tank—they dig down to escape heat and will cook themselves. Use a low-wattage side-mounted heat mat on a digital thermostat or warm the room ambiently to species-appropriate warm zone.
  • Stocked at Newberg & Gresham: At Critter Cabana (Newberg) and Gresham Pet Supply, we stock acrylic and glass invertebrate enclosures, cork bark flats and tubes, bioactive substrates, flightless fruit flies (D. melanogaster and D. hydei), pinhead to adult crickets, dubia roaches, and live Temperate White Springtail and Isopod cultures.

Common Questions (FAQ)

How do I keep my Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula warm and humid enough during an Oregon winter?

Target species-appropriate warm zone and 60-80% (Medium-High). When Oregon winter furnaces dry out the air, use a deep 3–5 inch substrate mix of Zoo Med ReptiSoil and coco fiber, keep a shallow water dish filled, and dampen one corner of the substrate rather than misting the animal directly. Never put a heat mat underneath a burrowing invertebrate enclosure.

What size enclosure does a Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula need?

An adult Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula thrives in 5-gallon tank with secure ventilation. For terrestrial tarantulas and scorpions, floor space and deep substrate matter most (keep open fall height low so heavy-bodied species cannot rupture their abdomen); for arboreal species, prioritize vertical cork bark tubes and cross-ventilation.

Can I put isopods in a Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula bioactive enclosure?

Around molting tarantulas and scorpions, skip protein-hungry large isopods and stick to Temperate White Springtails (or gentle Dwarf White isopods in humid detritivore setups) so a soft, newly molted animal is never nibbled.

Where can I find Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula, cork bark, and feeder insects in Oregon?

We stock live invertebrates, tarantulas, jumping spiders, cork bark flats and tubes, bioactive substrates, and gut-loaded feeder insects at our two exotic animal stores: Critter Cabana in Newberg (514 E First St, 503-537-2887) and Gresham Pet Supply (2185 NW Burnside Rd, 503-665-7606).

Questions about your Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula setup?

Our crew at Critter Cabana is happy to help you test water, pick the right thermostat and lighting, or mix a custom bioactive substrate. Call us at (503) 537-2570.

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